The Compressor Route, Cerro Torre. After more than three years of trying, David finally realized his dream of becoming the first person to free climb the infamous Compressor Route on Patagonia's Cerro Torre. The Russians did not summit Cerro Torre, because of melting ice and poor weather. He was able to climb the last pitch – which is named after him since his ascent - despite the chopped bolts. While the route does have 18 pitches of real climbing on it, seven pitches of bolted climbing make it the worlds hardest via feratta. The other way is flying first to the city of Rio Gallegos and then driving 316 km to El Calafate. Capping an already successful season in Patagonia, 22-year-old Marc-Andre Leclerc, from Squamish BC, raised the bar yet again by making the first solo (sometimes using a self belay) ascent of Cerro Torre's Corkscrew route (5.10d A1 90 degrees, 4,000'). [Photo] Marc-Andre Leclerc. Maestri, humiliated, returns to battle 12 years after his first ascent, in winter, and on the most complicated slope. Remaining only was Cerro Torre, a mountain I had tried to climb the year before. The American Jim Bridwell was the first to repeat the Compressor Route. He is known for his first free ascent of the Compressor Route (South-East Ridge) on Cerro Torre. Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by ... Cerro Torre. Bereits vor über 30 Jahren (1988) starteten die beiden Alpinisten Matthias und Michael Pinn vom Gipfel des Cerro Fitz Roy, nachdem sie die Route Supercanaleta kletterten. In early 2015 Caroline North and Christina Huber (DE) did the first female team ascent of the route. Maestri is best known for controversy surrounding climbs on Cerro Torre in Patagonia---his debunked claim of the first ascent of the peak in 1959, and his subsequent Compressor Route on it in 1970---but his other achievements in and around Europe make him a standout figure in world climbing. Torre Egger is the peak in the bottom of the frame. Cerro Torre rises in Argentine territory at the eastern edge of the Patagonian Ice Cap 50 miles north of Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park. Indeed, there’s now a new chapter which has only just opened. In a little over a decade Maestri, it may be argued, perpetrated the greatest hoax in the history of alpinism and also desecrated Cerro Torre with the Compressor Route. Cerro Torre je ena od gora v Južnopatagonskem ledenem polju v Južni Ameriki. There are two air transportation routes; one goes directly to the new El Calafate airport. There are no further details but this update will certainly add fuel to the controversy which has followed the bolt chopping carried out recently by Jason Kruk and Hayden Kennedy. Kruk and Kennedy Free the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. List of ascents. Photo: Kelly Cordes. If you want to climb Cerro Torre… Yesterday 22/01/2012 David Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. Vier Tage später begingen die beiden zusammen mit Uwe Passler die Compressor Route, konnten aber aufgrund der schlechten Wetterverhältnisse nicht vom Gipfel starten. After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is the third ascent of this route. After more than three years of trying, Austrian climber David Lama has finally realised his dream of becoming the first person to free climb the infamous Compressor Route on Patagonia's Cerro Torre. Maestri first claimed to have climbed the mountain in 1959 with the Austrian guide Toni Egger, who died during the climb. Just days after Kennedy and Kruk’s ascent, a young Austrian called David Lama claimed the first free climb of the erstwhile Compressor Route, eschewing even the five bolts Cerro Torre’s liberators made use of. We had attempted the southeast ridge, the line of the Compressor Route, but had avoided using any of Maestri's bolts. The 22-year-old conquered the east face of the 3,128m-high mountain using only mobile devices to secure his route after bolts from a previous attempt had been removed. It is not OK to leave obscene amounts of junk in the mountains. From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia). Credit: Escalando. There are two independent lines to the summit, one up the Southeast Ridge and the other up the Ragni Route on the west face. The news has been confirmed by David Lama's team. Chris Geisler and I had reached a point some 40 meters shy of the top of the headwall. The Cerro Torre is located in a four mountain chain; Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron, and Cerro Standhart. David Lama (Nepali: डेभिड लामा; 4 August 1990 – 16 April 2019) was an Austrian sport climber and mountaineer.He won the European Championship in bouldering in 2007 and the European Championship in lead climbing in 2006. The best route. A polêmica do Cerro Torre e a Via do Compressor. Through the 1960s, Cesare Maestri’s ascent of Cerro Torre was hotly disputed so to silence his critics, Maestri organized another expedition with five climbers and returned to Cerro Torre in 1970. Cerro Torre – iglica skalna w Parku Narodowym Los Glaciares w Patagonii o wysokości 3133 m n.p.m. Jest najwyższym z czterech szczytów w grupie, w skład której wchodzą jeszcze: Torre Egger, Punta Herron oraz Cerro Standhard.Ze względu na zmienność pogody oraz budowę (ściana zachodnia ma wysokość 2000 metrów) uznawana jest za jedną z najtrudniejszych technicznie gór świata. The usual approach is through Niponino and col Standhardt and takes most competent parties two days, although can be done in a long day by the fittest of the fit. Cerro Torre je hora ležící na území Národního parku Los Glaciares a Národního parku Bernardo O'higgins v Patagonii v blízkosti vsi El Chaltén v Argentině.Hora leží v sektoru, který je vymezen na hranici mezi Argentinou a Chile dle dohody z roku 1998. Over two seasons he used a petrol-driven air compressor, weighing approximately 135 kg (300 pounds) to drill bolts into the rock, some 400 in all, and thousands of metres of fixed ropes. It’s just a shade closer to how it has been for an eternity, minus the blip of the Compressor Route. That is an old school mentality that is not sustainable,” said Jon Walsh. Patagonia's Cerro Torre Gets the Chop: Maestri Unbolted (Photos) Conquering One of the World's Toughest Climbs. The most controversial route in the world. The only other female team ascent of Cerro Torre was done by Monika Kambic (AR) and Tanja Grmovsek (SI) in 2005, via the Compressor Route, jumaring the crux pitch on a rope fixed by another party. Helps to have the gear cached in Niponino. Soon after, Cerro Torre made the headlines again: The famous filmmaker Werner Herzog (“Fitzcarraldo”) made the mountain drama “Schrei aus Stein” there. When asked about the Compressor Route, the legendary Slovene climber Silvo Karo, responsible for two new routes and one major link up on Cerro Torre, responded, “That climb was stolen from the future. History doesn’t stop. Ele perdeu seu parceiro Toni Egger e parte dos seus equipamentos, incluindo a câmera fotografia que comprovava a conquista. Vrchol je nejvyšším ze skupiny čtyř vrcholů: Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron, a Cerro Standhart. Compressor route on Cerro Torre Graphic by the Guardian. Durante a descida da primeira escalada do Cerro Torre, Maestri teve grandes dificuldades causadas por uma avalanche. Cerro Torre is still there. Leclerc on the summit of Cerro Torre after completing the first solo ascent of the Corkscrew route. 6. La voie du compresseur est une voie d'escalade sur le Cerro Torre ouverte en artif' par Cesare Maestri, Carlo Claus et Ezio Alimonta en 1970, réalisée par fair means et déséquipée par Jason Kruk et Hayden Kennedy en 2012 et finalement libérée par David Lama et Peter Ortner (de) en 2012. The Compressor Route’s 90-meter bolt traverse begins at about the 12th pitch of approximately 28 pitches on the upper route, which starts after an approach of several thousand vertical feet. In 1970, Maestri returned to Cerro Torre and climbed a new route on the south-east side of the mountain. In 1782, Cerro Torre was observed by the Spanish explorer Antonio de Viedma, but it wasn’t for 100 years later that the Argentine Comisíon de Limites led by Franscisco “Perito” Moreno gave it the name Torre. The 22-year-old conquered the east face of the 3,128m-high mountain using only mobile devices to secure his route after bolts from a previous attempt had been removed. After more than three years of trying, David finally realized his dream of becoming the first person to free climb the infamous Compressor Route on Patagonia's Cerro Torre. Er ist einer der schönsten und zugleich einer der schwierigsten Berge der Welt: der Cerro Torre in Patagonien. Se da la circunstancia de que la vía del Compresor era hasta ahora la más utilizada para ascender a la cumbre del Cerro Torre, puesto que era también la más asequible de todas. Cerro Torre is the tallest of these four mountains. Meanwhile the history of Cerro Torre is still being written. Compressor Route. The Long Run 6c A1 M7, 2100 m, Cerro Torre, new route, following whole SE Ridge of the mountain and summiting two other “cerros” on the way: El Mochito (by a new route, 6a, 250m) and El Mocho (by Benitieres, Anker-Piola, ED-, 6c A1). After more than three years of trying, Austrian climber David Lama has finally realised his dream of becoming the first person to free climb the infamous Compressor Route on Patagonia's Cerro Torre. source: summitpost.org, image: guim.co.uk One of the best ways to get the Cerro Torre is via the city of El Calafate and then to El Chalten. View to the north from high on Cerro Torre. Located on the West side of Cerro Torre and usually approached from the town of Chalten over two days.